2007 Gewürztraminer, Hagueneau de Bergheim, Domaine Rolly-Gassmann

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A wine from the Alsace village of Bergheim, on grey dolomitic marl soils, mid slope at 250 meters. This is perfect Gewürztraminer country, imbuing the fruit with rich botrytis. Combine this with the excellent 2007 season and this Selection de Grains Nobles spirals up with smoky and cassis confit notes. There's an extraordinary overripe lemon character to this prodigious wine that calls for a tranche of Roquefort! 103 grams of residual sugar meets 4.5 grams of acidity. Wow! David Berry Green