2008 St Joseph, Les Serines, Domaine Yves Cuilleron

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Yves Cuilleron has long been seen as the leader of Condrieu's new generation of winemakers, but in fact makes as much red as white wine and has an equally impressive reputation for this holdings in Côte Rôtie and St Joseph and his mastery of the sometimes rather chimerical Syrah grape. That this mastery was centred on the use of oak, in the early days at least, did little to undermine the plaudits, although now that there is more moderation in the size and age of the barrels, the plaudits have, if anything, become louder and even more effusive. Les Serines is Yves’ top St Joseph, from old sou