2010 Riesling, Vom Stein Smaragd, Nikolaihof, Wachau

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Tasting the Nikolaihof 2010 Riesling Smaragd Vom Stein alongside the lighter end of their 2012 collection – which I found surprisingly bright for that vintage – puts brightness and acid-driven animation in perspective. Here we have the sharply bright, spine-tingling, almost eye-watering intensity that few vintages can deliver like 2010. Pungent sage and tangerine rind harken back to Muscat in Riesling’s family tree, while generous fresh lemon juiciness serves for stimulating refreshment of a sort that few if any Muscats could supply. At 12.5% alcohol, this also harkens back to the weight typic