2011 Bramaterra, Antoniotti, Sostegno, Piedmont

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The unique geology of the site means that their Bramaterra, vinified in cement rather than large French botti, remains toothsome and alive, and at only 13.5 percent alcohol, despite the heat of the vintage. In 2011 70 percent of the wine is Nebbiolo, giving the spine and refinement; 20 percent is Croatina, giving the ruby hue and pulpy generosity in youth; seven percent is Vespolina, a spicy relative of Nebbiolo; while the cherry on the torta is Uva Rara, all three percent of which lends an over-ripe fig or tamarind dimension. Blush, limpid, ruby-garnet, one can sense the heat of the vintage w