2011 Riesling Durnsteiner Kellerburg, Smaragd, F. X. Pichler, Loiben

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So feminine, so refined and softly spoken, Kellerberg Riesling reflects the granite, loess and some alluvial deposits that soak up the south-east facing aspect to give us this sylph-like Riesling; a wine that's been sensitively and traditionally reared in large old oak barrels. A joy to drink even now, along with some freshly smoked brown trout. This wine will improve over the years to come, but already gorgeous, lacy limey, velvety, with smoothness that comes from the loess component in the soils. David Berry Green