2011 Royal Somló Juhfark, Somló, Hungary

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Juhfark. Pardon? No, I haven’t sworn. This came to our attention through a family connection in the Masters of Wine London office. Solmó is just north of Lake Balaton in the west of Hungary. And Juhfark? Pronounced “ewe-farq”, this is one of Hungary’s least known but most age-worthy native varieties. Mineral and saline with white fruits, and relatively high acidity. Neutral when young, the character comes after a year in old 400-litre barrels and bottle-ageing. A rare wine too, only 100 hectares under vine. Ready now and to 2018. Particularly good with dim sum and shellfish, especially prawns,