2012 Barolo, Serra, Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont

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While the Rosso family’s Vigna Rionda vineyard may now be the most sought-after, it’s their Serra vineyard, on bright, white, talc soils just across the road that consistently catches the eye. Beautifully poised with salty, red-cherry fruit freshness and such focus. While Cerretta delves out the plummy fruit in abundance, Serra is more sinewy and highly strung, like a thoroughbred race horse. This is pure, red rose essence.