2012 Barolo, Vigna Rionda, Giovanni Rosso, Serralunga d'Alba

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Tasting the wine from barrel on Friday 7th March, I was struck, not by any particular aroma or flavour, but by the elegant shape of the wine. Pale red/ruby in colour, the nose is reassuringly self-effacing; it’s understated, composed and cultured, delicately perfumed with mulberry, a hint of menthol and cool clove. The palate is remarkable for its serenity, Maserati-line and persistence. Barely discernible are the layers of tight, sweet-berried fruit and spice, framed by the finest tannins, racy with cleansing acidity. Compared with vintage 2011, Vigna Rionda 2012 is more classical, with coole