2012 Dom Rafael Branco, Herdade Do Mouchâo, Alentejo

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Portuguese white wine does not usually achieve Parnassian heights of excellence, and has often, in truth, been rather clumsy and oxidised. At Mouchao there has been no sacrifice of local colour with the use of local grape varieties (Arinto and Antão Vaz) but a real effort has been made in the winery, with stainless steel and temperature control both employed to add a crispness and freshness. This is an expressive wine from a good vintage with plenty of weight and character, fresh certainly but with Iberian warmth and a citric dried fruit twist on the finish; all in all a perfect match for ..