2013 Grüner Veltliner, Georgenberg, Josef Ehmoser, Wagram

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Although a little removed from the fashionable Wachau and Kamptal regions, there is no doubt Wagram can produce very good wine. And perfectionist Josef squeezes every ounce of expression out of it. The Georgenberg vineyard was planted by his grandfather on the prime mid-slope, south-facing land. Minimal intervention in the winemaking allows full expression. I love Grüner Veltliner. It has the weight of Chardonnay but a flavour profile that includes white pepper and, some say, lentil. That makes it a good food wine alongside ripe greengage, orange blossom and a tell-tale earthiness. Unique. L