2014 Santenay, Clos Rousseau, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud

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From an enclave known as Clos des Roches Noires, this boasts a noble, purple colour and a first-rate nose: there’s real class here. One can find a certain opulence in the mouth, with red fruit flesh and very old vines; it tightens up just enough at the back to guarantee safe ageing. Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the c