2015 Domaine Lyrarakis, Plyto, Crete, Greece

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The family-run Lyrarakis estate has made a habit of rescuing indigenous grape varietals from the brink of extinction – first the remarkable, laurel-scented Dafni, now the equally characterful Plytó. Grown in the spectacular Psarades vineyard, which sits close to 500 metres altitude, this is the only 100% Plytó in commercial production anywhere on the planet. It has a dazzling yellow hue and subtle aromas of white flowers and orchard fruit. There’s an engaging saline lick and ‘olive pit’ bitterness to the finish, as well as the finesse and freshness that are hallmarks of the domaine. I enjoyed